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Cities and Regions:Northern Towns and Southern Towns
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Cities and Regions

Last updated June 26, 2003

Whether you are just passing through the region or are an incoming JET starved for information on your new home, get a glimpse of Yamaguchi ken from the perspective of former JETs. Just choose your destination!

Cities (on this page)	Click here for Northern Towns	Click here for Southern Towns
Shimonoseki Ube Hagi Yamaguchi City Hofu Tokuyama Iwakuni City Map	Tamagawa Yuya Susa Mutsume Fukue Ato Nagato Shuho Toyoura	Yamato Yanai Kuga Oshima Mine Asa Aio Abu Hikari

Shimonoseki
	Shimonoseki is the doorway to Honshu island. It is the largest city in Yamaguchi Ken and offers a bit of culture and diversion to compliment its predominantly maritime leanings. Check out the convention center and the Shimonoseki tower as well as the Aquarium. The sea mall near the JR train station will serve all of your shopping and entertainment needs. Shimonoseki is famous for Fuku puffer fish quizine (Let's hope they cut it right otherwise the poison in that guy could kill you.), as well as other seafood dishes. It is also a good launching point for trips to Korea. Read up on Shimonoseki at the city's official site. ... or read on to get a former local's perspective.

Shimonoseki

If you read the Lonely Planet guideâs description of Shimonoseki, you might be wondering if the place is worth a visit or not. Having spent almost a year here, I do believe you can give the place a wide berth without anyone saying: ãWhat! You spent a year in Japan and didnât go to Shimonoseki?ä Having said that, Shimonoseki is a city that grows on you and I have had a wonderful time here and canât knock the place.

Despite its provinciality and its less than hip reputation, there remains a great deal to see and do, especially during the day. For the night time entertainment, you have to get creative, but I donât think that has been a major problem for the JET community. Anyway, here are a few ãSights and Sounds of Shimonosekiä to start you off with:

Shopping: Seamall is a wonderful place to spend an afternoon come rain or shine. Itâs a fairly large shopping complex with lots of ãplastic food pointy styleä restaurants on the 4th floor and the usual collection of fast food outlets on the ground floor - including a representative of the ãProntoä chain - a lovely little bistro/restaurant place with (a proper French style) cafŽ au lait for ?180. Daimaru (elegant, expensive department store) has a small selection of foreign foods in the basement and thereâs also a good sized ?100 shop on the ground floor. (Shimonoseki Eki Bus Stop)

Restaurants: Burabara Pizzeria is a new restaurant which has a very European feel to it. You have full view of the bustling streets of Karato while eating a traditional stone oven pizza and sipping a glass of wine. It makes a nice change from the ãäguess whatâs behind the sliding door type of place that dominates Japan. Aruberi is an Italian style restaurant also in the Karato district. It does very reasonably priced ãpizza, gratin, and spaghettiä courses with an ãall you can eatä salad bar. Great value, pleasant atmosphere. Also does party menus. (Karato Bus Stop)

Letzen is situated close to the station and has an excellent party menu offer. ?3000 gets you a seemlessly never-ending supply of food plus all you can eat and drink for two hours. And this really is an ãall you can drinkä place, not just the usual beer and sake but cocktails, spirits and wine are available.

Fugu: Shimonoseki produces 95% of Japanâs fugu (blowfish) and itâs a fact its people are very proud of. In fact, the cityâs mascot is a fugu and has pride of place on government letterheads, envelopes, telephone boxes, and drain covers amongst other things. Fugu, unless dissected properly, is deadly, but donât let this worry you. The chefs have to have a special license to handle fugu and you can feel fairly safe in sampling some of the local fugu delicacies. Fugu comes in all shapes and forms: sashimi, deep fried, fugu rice, and even hot sake boiled with a fugu's tail. Oishii ne! Two great, cheap places to try fugu are Kin-kin and Mannaoshi, both of which are a 5-10 minute walk from the station.

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Ube
	Well, Ube is a major city along the Prefecture's southern coast. It is served by an airport as well as a shinkansen station and can be seen as mainly a travel hub. If you want to get a more personal account of Ube check out www.genkistar.com for a former Y-kenners take on it. And the official site of the city is found at www.city.ube.yamaguchi.jp/english. Ube by Susan Simitz (2000-2003) Ube is about 1 hour from Shimonoseki, which is know for Fugu, the poisonous blowfish. It is really delicious in nabe, a popular winter dish. I am happy to say that a Starbucks has just opened next to the Shimonoseki station. There is also a big shopping center there called Sea Mall. If you want a much bigger city you can take the local train about 1 1/4 hours to Kokura where there are some good bars such as Fujiyama Mamas, many restaurants and lots of shopping. Recently a big shopping center just opened with another Starbucks. It is called Riverwalk and is not far from Kokura station. If you are looking to go dancing and want a really big city to hang out in you can go to Fukuoka. It is 3 hours by local train or about an hour by Shinkansen. There is also an international airport located in Fukuoka. If you want to go to Tokyo you can travel from the Ube Airport, which is much cheaper and faster than taking the Shinkansen. Recycling Ube and Japan in general is really big on recycling. I will leave you a detailed list of how the garbage is divided and on what days you put it out. Just a brief run down: Monday, Wednesday, Friday is regular garbage day. There is a big green metal box out on the main street where you put the garbage is special plastic bags that say Ube city on them. You can buy these at the supermarket. Thursday is plastic day. All plastic, even candy wrappers should be recycled. You can put all of this in a regular clear plastic bag. The place for this is across the street, down the narrow street and across from the small restaurant Senri. You will see everyone else’s garbage so don't worry. Once a month is newspaper and cardboard recycling day and once a month is Pet bottles (plastic drink bottles), cans, glass and metal. DO NOT bring it out the night before. I have learned the hard way. I got yelled at twice by some old man about bringing my garbage at the wrong time. Apparently the right time is between 7:30-8:30am. There will be lots of people inspecting your garbage to make sure you put the right thing in the right bag. Weather and clothes to pack In case you are wondering about what clothes to bring it is pretty cold in the winter. It gets down to about 0-5 degrees Celsius. In the summer it gets super hot and sticky and the temperature gets up to about 32 degrees Celsius. It is so bad that you need to keep all of your windows closed and the AC on. There is also a floor fan in the apartment so I recommend you bring shorts, tank tops, tennis shoes, sandals and a hat for the summer. For the winter I recommend you bring a winter coat, scarf, hat, gloves, thick socks and a bathrobe. If you are able to, I also suggest that you bring an electric blanket. I didn’t have one the first year and I was super cold at night. The apartments in Japan have really bad insulation. It rains a lot in Japan so you really need to bring rain pants and a rain jacket, preferably waterproof. If you plan to ship things ahead I suggest you ship your winter clothes, blankets, any books you want to bring. There are bookstores with English books down in Kyushu but they are almost triple the price of what you can buy them for at home. Japanese Culture If you are interested in Japanese Culture you can sign up for Ikebana, calligraphy, martial arts or probably anything you want. Other foreigners and festivals Ube is not far from other Jets. There are always lots of events and dinner parties going on so you don’t have to worry about feeling isolated. Japan has many festivals you can go to. Ube has a summer and fall festival. There is also Obon, which happens in August when all the Japanese go back to their hometowns and prepare to welcome their dead relatives back to their homes. What you need to know is that everyone is traveling at this time in Japan so the trains are super crowded and it is really expensive to travel. Try not to go anywhere if you can during this time. Last summer I traveled to Hokkaido during this time, which made my trip really expensive, but worth it. The weather in Hokkaido in August is like October. If you have a chance to visit Hokkaido in the summer to see the Lavender, July is the best time. Or in winter for skiing and the ice festival in Sapporo (February). I really recommend it! If you want to go to Kyoto or Osaka and don't want to spend the money taking the Shinkansen I really recommend taking the ferry from Moji. It is only 6000 yen versus 13,000 to take the bullet train. You take the train to Moji (transfer at Shimonoseki and go one more stop). Walk out of Moji station and there is a big sign for the ferry and lots of people waiting for the free bus to take you to the port. The ferry leaves at 5pm and 8pm every day. The bus leaves at 4pm and 7pm. If you miss the bus a taxi is about 5,000 yen or more! You can get your own private room on the ferry but the cheap ticket is to sleep on the tatami floor with a bunch of people. There are beer machines, a restaurant, small shop, tv and an onsen on the boat. Sometimes you will meet people who give you free beer and snacks. This has happened to me many times. Great! Restaurants There are lots of Izakayas (Japanese style pubs) and I love them. They are a great place to drink beer and share lots of different foods with your friends. Most of them have picture menus. If you can read Katakana that is great because most of the menus are written in Katakana. It also helps to know the kanji for chicken, pork, beef and seafood. • Suikoden(near the Joyfull downtown) • Aka Chochin(red lantern) which is one block past Suikoden on the same side of the street. Make a left on the little alley and it is the first place you see on the right with a red lantern outside. They have really good tempura. • Across from Aka Chochin is another really good place called Kirara I think. • Hakkenden(around the corner from the UFJ bank) • Tatsuya which is around the corner from Ube Shinkawa station and across from the water fountain(you can’t see miss it). It is downstairs • Beer House(hear the Big Hip bar which is around the corner from the Ube Shinkawa station). They have pretty cheap food and good garlic toast • Kanpaiya which is across from Ube Shinkawa station and down a little street. It is hard to miss. It is on the right hand side on the first floor of a big building that is full of snack bars. • Dug out which is across from Watanabe Hall and next to the Kokusai Hotel. Lots of college students go there. They have pizza, curry rice, salads etc. • Takakura is a new revolving sushi restaurant that just opened a few months ago. It is around the corner from the Dugout. • Matsuri on the other side of the street from Takakura and to the left of Hokka Hokka Tei • There is a good chinese restaurant on the 7th floor of the Kokusai International hotel • Tonko is another chinese restaurant. There is one in the ANA hotel in the basement and one near the KFC near Onda sports park Bars Well sorry to disappoint you but there are not many bars in Ube or barely any I should say. There is the Big Hip, which has live music sometimes and you can get a drink there any night of the week. The people from Aeon and Nova hang out there. There is Prelude, which is a cocktail bar around the corner from The Big Hip on a small street and all drinks are 1000 yen. There is Casual Bar, which is on the third floor above the ramen shop around the corner from Ube Shinkawa eki. I wouldn’t recommend going there unless you want to spend 800 yen for one drink and have to get stuck buying a snack plate of cheese, saltine crackers and a little bit of fruit for 2,000 yen. I didn’t know that until I went with my friend for a quick drink and got stuck paying for food I didn't even want. There is a live house called Southern Cross, which is pretty cool and they have live music. It is next to the river near the city office(Shiyakusho). Karaoke If you are like me, I never thought I would go to Karaoke, much less like it. But I have to say it grows on you. There are many places near Ube Shinkawa station.. Friends is one of them Next to the apt a new place just opened. It is massive! The name is Shidax Please and it looks like a mini Disneyland inside. Hair Cuts If you are looking for a good, cool place to get your haircut then you should try Bewitch Hair Club. I have been going there for almost 3 years. Everyone is super nice, they have a TV that plays music videos and lots of magazines to look at. Haircuts are much nicer here than at home. Here you get a nice long shampoo, hot towel on your neck, a head and shoulder massage and a great cut. I am really going to miss this place. Kimiko is the girl who cuts my hair and she is married to the owner. It is down the street next to Ube Shinkawa station and on a corner. This is the same street as the post office. Next to the haircut salon is a Karaoke place and then the train tracks and then Watanabe Hall. You should be able to find it pretty easy. Grocery Stores You have many choices for supermarkets. The food is definitely more expensive than back at home but you will get used to it and you will also start to alter you diet based on the different kinds of food you can buy. I personally love to cook so I spent a lot of time learning Japanese words for food and trying to make Japanese food at home. • Yumato-This is the closet place to the apartment but their vegetables are not good quality and sometimes are way too expensive. They have really cheap meat and it is a good place if you need something at the last minute. Though they do have a Saturday morning vegetable sale outside. Sometimes you can find some good deals. • COOP: This is about a 5 minute bike ride from the apt. Go left out of the apt and make a right at the corner when you see UNIQLO(which is a discount clothing shop) and you will see it on your left hand side. There is also a liquor shop past COOP and it has pretty good prices. Don’t go to the dry cleaners across from the COOP. They are horrible and they ruined a bunch of my clothes. • Max Value is around the corner from COOP and they have a great bakery and lots of good take out food. • Big Mart: This has a grocery store, a mini drugstore, clothing store and a 100 yen shop. The prices for food are pretty good and I do most of my shopping here. Make a right out of the apt and then a right at the corner. Make a left at the first intersection pass MOS Burger. Go up the left side of the street and you can't miss it. • Bakeries There are lots of bakeies in Ube. The COOP has one, Izutsuya downstairs has one, there is one near the Ube Chuo bus stop and Sanden Ryoko Travel. It is a French Bakery and has a café upstairs. I think the name is Quatre Saisson. • FBC: I love ordering from the Foreign Buyer's Club in Kobe. I recommend becoming a member. I ended up ordering from them much more than I anticipated. They deliver in about 3-5 days. Tengu is also good if you want organic or healthy foods. Take Out Food Mos Burger- I love this place. It is a fast food burger place but is healthier than McDonalds and I think it is much better. It is only 3 minutes by bike from the apt. Make a right from the apt and turn right at the corner and you will see it on the right hand side about 3-4 minutes later. • Hokka Hokka Tei has take out bentos. I will leave take out menus for all of these places in the apt. Oh, you can also order take out pizza from Chicago Pizza but it is a bit expensive. If you call and give them my phone number they already have me in their computer. Be careful of the pizza with mayonnaise on it! Of course there is McDonalds: It is at Fuji Grand Mall which is about a 30 minute bike ride away but you can take a bus from Ube Shinkawa or in front of Emura Department store. It is bus number 18. Movie Theater There is a movie theater at Fuji Grand but it is really expensive. It costs 1800 yen for a movie and on Tuesday's it is ladies day so the movies are 1000 and on Wednesday it is men's day and it is 1000 for men. I usually rent movies at World Video Rental ,which is in front of Ube Chuo High School. It you make a left out of your apt you will see World after a few minutes on your left hand side. As of June World will be closing to renovate and then reopening at some point. Sorry I don’t know when this will happen. If it is not open when you arrive you can always go to Kotaro to rent videos. Take a right out of the apartment and then go straight until you see WANTS drugstore. This is about a 10 minute bike ride. At the corner go right and you will see Kotaro music, video and bookstore on your left. Transportation I have been riding a bike around Ube for the last 3 years and taking trains and buses when I need to go somewhere far. I didn't find any need to buy a car or a scooter. I would rather spend my money on actually traveling in Japan. The closest train stop to the apt is Kotoshiba and I will leave you detailed train schedules and Shinkansen schedules in the apt. From Kotoshiba you need to take a local train to Ube and then transfer to Ogori to catch a Shinkansen if you are heading north. If you want to go south by Shinkansen you take Kotoshiba to Ube station and then transfer to Asa(towards Shimonoseki). Don't worry, this will all become clear after you arrive. From Asa you can head down to Kyushu. You can also take the local train to Kokura(about 1 1/2 hours) which is a major city with a Tower Records, HMV, good restaurants ,shopping and some good bars. A huge new shopping mall called Riverwalk just opened in Kokura and it is really nice. If you want really good shopping, dance clubs, etc you can head down to Fukuoka which by local train takes 3 hours or take the Shinkansen which is fast but expensive. You can ride your bike to Ube Chuo and Ube Kogyo but to get to Ube Nishi you will need to ride your bike to Kotoshiba station and take a train to Ube station. Then you will catch the number 45 bus to Ube Nishi and then walk up the hill to the school. It is best to buy a bus pass on the bus. I think you can buy 1000, 3000 and 5000 yen bus passes. I always buy the 3000 yen bus pass which really gets you 3360yen. You insert the bus card into the machine at the back of the bus when you get on and then one more time in the machine at the front of the bus when you get off. It costs about 130 yen from Ube station to Ube Nishi. When you go home it is easier to take the bus and the cost is 330yenb to take you to Emura. I will leave you more information on bus and train times to get you to school. As for taking the train to school it is easier to buy an Orange Card for 1000 yen at Ube Shinkawa or Ube Station. The cost to take the train from Kotoshiba to Ube station is 190 yen and it is much easier to use the card than paying cash each time. Coffee Places If you like coffee, lattes, mochas there is a brand new coffee place that opened next to Ube Shinkawa station called Bob Marlins café. The man who owns the place is a Karate master and is super nice and friendly. There are two Starbucks relatively close by. One in Shimonoseki, and one in Kokura Riverwalk. Book Stores There is Quest in Kokura and Kinokuniya in Fukuoka. They are quite expensive though. If you really want books cheap you can order them online thru www.amazon.co.jp and have them delivered to the apt. You can even pay cash when they arrive instead of putting them on a credit card. Shopping In Yamaguchi City, Shimonoseki, Kokura and Fukuoka you can find my favorite store Muji Ryushi. They have clothes, snacks, bath items, paper, folders, pens and things for the house including furniture. In Ube there is Izutsuya and Emura department stores. Izutsuya is good for the food area downstairs and its bakery. The clothes are mostly for older women. Emura has some clothes for younger people but it a bit expensive. Other than that I seriously recommend getting out of Ube if you want to do some good shopping.

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Hagi
	Hagi is a special town that is filled with history. One can't help but have good feelings about Hagi. It is the seat of the Meji restoration movement and its clean seaside location really sets it apart. Check out the old samuri quarters and multitude of temples and historical sites. You might even find a secluded beach or a nice path for a stroll. Read all about Hagi at hagicity a privately operated site. Former JET,Charlotte Stern, provides the following information.

Hagi
by Charlotte Stern

Hagi is not the most convenient place to live in Yamaguchi but it is a beautiful, friendly little town and a fun place to visit. The Lonely Planet has this to say of it: "If there were a single reason for travelling along the northern coast of Honshu it would be Hagi." I would certainly agree after living here for one year but maybe other AETs would disagree. It is admittedly about as far from the bright lights of the big cities as you can get in Yamaguchi but if you get desperate you can reach Hiroshima in 4 hours by bus and Fukuoka in 3 hours by Shinkansen (bullet train). This year we have managed to have fun here and any time you want to visit you are likely to find we have something on!

History
Hagi is a very important place in Japanese history. I however am still very ignorant about this so my brief synopsis is that one of the most influential Meiji restoration leaders, Yoshida Shoin was born in Hagi. He came to the conclusion·.well I am really not interested so if you are, you can find (some information at the YayJET site's history page.)

Things to see
(see the Lonely Planet or any good guide book for details)
Hagi Castle Ruins: The castle is no longer there but the grounds are very pretty especially in cherry blossom season.
Daishoin Temple: The resting-place for a number of Mori lords and 500 stone lanterns. Very tranquil and moss covered. A place for reflection and solitude except at Obon when it is packed but very beautiful, as the stone lanterns are all lit.
Tokoji: Basically the same as Daishoin
The Samurai Quarter: the old white washed walls and narrow streets dating back many centuryâs is a great place to take a stroll or bike ride and get lost in for a while as the whole area can feel like a maze.
Shoin shrine: the shrine to pay homage and pray to Hagiâs most well known teacher.

Places worth to travelling to:
Kasayama,
Carp pond,
Chomonkyo Gorge.

Places to eat:
There are many great places to eat in Hagi but some are a little hidden away but weâve pretty much got the place sussed now. Here are some of our favorites but you can always call us for details. Pause is a great European restaurant, Hagi Ko is a cheap Japanese restaurant, Maru an expensive but lovely place. There are several izakayas (Japanese style pubs) and the standard family diners of Gusto and Joyful. We have had fun testing the various parfaits and the biggest is at Beer City Hagi·do you accept the challenge?! There is also Smile ice-cream parlor where the owner, Kondo san, speaks English.

As far as bars go there are three that we regularly frequent. These are Seiâs, No Side (formally North Side but Japanese canât say ãrthä) and the bar known as the ãtranny barä (the real name escapes me) which is upstairs from the transvestite bar. There are also a large number of snacks, which we try to avoid for fear of meeting our teachers but you will find about that.

Festivals
Hagi Summer Festival: Aug. 1-3 includes street stalls, events down the main street at night, and most spectacular of all the fireworks. Large companies such as Toyota and Honda try to compete with each other trying to produce the most beautiful and dramatic fireworks.
Obon: What makes Hagi special is the 500 or so lanterns in Tokoji and Daishoin temples. They are lit on a certain night over the Obon period.
Autumnal Street Festival: Street parade and food stalls are set up and people wear traditional costumes.
White bait eating festival: Raw white bait eating held in front of Higashi Hagi station sometime in Mid March.
Hanami: cherry blossom viewing - the grounds of the castle hold cherry blossom viewing parties where people sit around and drink and eat.

Travel Tips
Train - Higashi Hagi station is the biggest in town, not Hagi station
Bus - There are a number of buses heading in many different directions. You can take an overnight bus to Tokyo (14 hours - ?14250 ), Osaka (9 hours - ?9480), and Hiroshima (4 hours - ?3300).
Bikes - They can be rented for about ?500 at Higashi Hagi Station.

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Yamaguchi City
	This is the capital of the prefecture, but you wouldn't know it. It is the smallest prefectural capital in the country and overurbanization is highly discouraged here. That being said, Yamaguchi is a beautiful city tucked down in the middle fo the mountains. If you are in the know, Yamaguchi does offer a bit of nightlife, especially in the Yuda onsen section of town. Central JETs will often visit here for some limited shopping at the boutiques lining the station street, as well. The attraction to the rest of Yamaguchi, though, is the city's beauty and quiet. Temples, rivers and gardens abound. Many of the prefecture wide conferences are held at the Prefecure Government building in town, so most ALTs will be stopping by a few times. Yamaguchi City's site can be accessed here, but Uber-JETen, Mike Hasinoff, Kate Schueller, Emma Argento, Stacy Asato and Lisa Kanski, address all possible capital city questions right here!

Yamaguchi City
by: Mike Hasinoff, Kate Schueller, Emma Argento,
Stacy Asato and Lisa Kanski
(ammended, with all due deference to my Yamaguchi Gods, by Jon Dillow)

Fun Facts About Yamaguchi City
-with 135 000 people, Yamaguchi is the smallest Prefectural Capital in Japan!
-All AET meetings take place in fair Yamaguchi, whether at Kencho or Seminar Park!
-Yamaguchi was once known as the ãKyoto of the Westä.

Sights
The 5-Story Pagoda: Built in 1442, the beautiful pagoda is one of Yamaguchi-kenâs most beautiful and famous sights. It is especially rare because each story is the same width. If you have a chance, try to see it at night. The pagoda and the pond in front are illuminated and it is spectacular. The pagoda is a 5 minute walk from Kencho.
Sesshutei (Sesshu Garden) at Jyoeji Temple: This garden is located a few kilometers north-east of central Yamaguchi (donât walk) but definitely worth a visit. The garden is very beautiful and peaceful. You can sit on the tatami and look out into the garden, or take a walk along the path through the woods and bamboo grove. There is also a hike up to a tiny shrine but the view is not really worth the climb.
Sabieru (Francis Xavier Church): Taking itâs name from the Portuguese missionary who visited the city 450 years ago, this is one of the most ultramodern-looking churches you will see anywhere. It is no secret that locals prefer the older structure, which burned down mysteriously on itsâ 40th anniversary. It also may be worth your time to walk to the park at the top of the hill surrounding the church. Sabieru is about a 10 minute walk from Yamaguchi Station.
Ichi-no Sakagawa: The name refers to a beautiful 1 km-long stretch of stream running through the city. It is lined with cherry trees and crossed with numerous foot bridges. The best time to visit would be late March when the trees are in full bloom and late May when the fireflies are dancing. Ichi no Sakagawa is about a 3 minute walk from Kencho.
Ryuzoji: This temple is a about a 30 minute uphill bike ride from Yamaguchi Station. Taking a car or taxi might be a good idea. You will find a beautiful Buddhist temple set in the woods with a small waterfall. There is also a huge statue of an evil-looking deity. A good time to visit would be during Obon (mid-August) when there is a festival with taiko drumming, food and more.

Eateries
Shiva: One of the most popular restaurants in the ken, Shiva is located across the street from Yamaguchi Station. It is famous for itsâ authentic curry which can be ordered on a spice scale from 0-50! The menu is in English and has pictures, so ordering from the ever-cheerful waitress is easy. You can eat well for about 1500\.
Au Quartier Latin: This cozy cafe is located directly behind the Prefectural Library or you can find it by walking along the Ichi no Sakagawa. With one of the best cafe au laits you can find in the city, you can order the ãlunch setä for a reasonable 900\. The dessert isn't bad either...
La Francesca: Perhaps the nicest restaurant in the city, this beautiful building is an exact copy of an Italian villa. The food is gourmet, offering a high-quality pasta, pizza and fish or steak. Last summer they offered an all-you-can-eat and drink (with wine!) 3000\ for women and 4000\ for men.
Xavier Campana: Next door to La Francesca. There is an all-you-can-eat brunch on Sundays. The menu offers a good variety of Italian foods. *****THE XAVIER CAMPANA BAKERY is located under the restaurant. By far, it is the favorite bakery of AETS in the city and is worth a visit.
Yamaguchi Narutaki Kogen Brewery: A beautiful, log-cabin type, restaurant on a hill just off Route 9 towards Hofu. They brew their own beer (dark included!) and you can Yakiniku or order western food. Also take a walk along the grounds if you get a chance. (083 933 1030)
Mare: An Italian restaurant with good food, reasonable prices, good selection of wine (Spanish wine too!) and a nice atmosphere. One is located in Yudaonsen and one is just beside You Me Town.
Hakkenden Izakaya: One of our favorites of many in the city. The menu has pictures, reasonable prices, and is open until 2 a.m. (083 923 2112)
Kinryu Ramen: located under the Movie Theater in Yuda. Cheap and good ramen. Great on those ãslightly chillyä evenings. Look for the yellow sign with the green dragon.
Tomiden: A Korean restaurant located in Yudaonsen. Friendly service, fair prices and the food is excellent. (083 933 1030)
The L.A. Cafe: Actually in Ogori, this Mexican place is easily accessible on the Yamaguchi train line. Being one of only two or three Mexican food restaurants in the Ken, it is quite popular among JETs. The owner, who has assumed the name Carlos from his 18 years of restaurant ownership in the U.S., is very friendly and does a passible job at bringing L.A. flavor to rural Yamaguchi.
Chain Restauants in Yamaguchi-Shi: McDonald`s, Lotteria, KFC, Mister Donut, Fracasso, Gusto, Casa, Joyful

Night Spots
*the following is a list of bars/karaokes places that we have visited in or near Yudaonsen.

Frank: a highly recomended spot on the Yamaguchi Station street with good food, good booze, and great deserts! The staff is hip and friendly, including the owner, her daughter, and a cute little dog. Thursday is a big foreigner night, but at most other times, too, you will feel at home in the relaxed and open attitude. I mean the name of the place is "Frank."
Ragtime: small bar just a 2-minute walk from Yudaonsen Station. The highlight of this place is that they serve Guiness!!
BIG G: the place where foreigner get-togethers have occured. This place has a pool room numerous tables,with a dance room and a few small karaoke rooms in the back. A medium-sized beer costs about 500\
Taps: This pool place has four floors with a few tables on each floor. You can bring in your own food and drinks if you wish!
Oshare Jaya: This popular izakaya is famous for its shabu shabu. They offer all you can eat and drink specials for about 3000\ for 2 hours.
Music Station: A small karaoke box is a great deal. Here you pay for the room and not per person. The more people the better! They also have a wide selection of tunes to choose from.
*****Yudaonsen also boasts many onsens--public and private. One favorite is located across from the Hotel New Tanaka where you can bath privately for 600\.

Shopping
The Shotengai (shopping ginza) offers a 100\ PLAZA, and the Chimakiya department store as well as many others. The ginza is a 5 minute walk straight ahead of Yamaguchi Station.
You Me Town shopping center has a new part called HARD OFF (go ahead and laugh if you wish). But, it sells used EVERYTHING and nothing is over 5 years old. Looking for a stereo to last you the year? This is your place.
BIG discount shop: Huge department store with very reasonable grocery prices and other `stuff`. Sort of like a Japanese Target or Woolworths store...

And Finally·
Izumi Cut House: My personal hero, Izumi-san, is a very friendly guy who loves to talk with foreigners (in English!). Even better? If you let one of his apprenticing students cut your hair then you don`t pay. He offers this special service on certain weeknights and he won`t let you go until you are satisfied. Call ahead for an appointment. (083 023 2727)
Furosato Densho Sogo Center: Make your own chopsticks! For about 1000\ per pair they supply all of the materials! A great momento of Japan!
Chomonkyo Gorge: a beautiful hike about a 40 minute train ride from Yamaguchi Station.

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H O F U
by: Stephen Goobie

Welcome to Hofu. Home sweet Hofu. Well maybe not quite home, but this city of 130,000 "genki" citizens is big enough to keep one from going too crazy (though you may need some medication), yet small enough so that people still stare at you like they don't have eyelids. It's a typical small Japanese city: lots of cement, plenty of glittering pachinko and love hotel signs, cluttered car dealers, fast food joints, and badly planned suburban sprawl. It also features a Japanese Self Defense Force base and lots of noisy propellor planes buzzing the skies. But most of all, Hofu is SATY, the department store by the station. On any given day lots of suspicious, half-crazed people loiter around the station, making weird sounds and staring at foreigners. The city is nearly surrounded by mountains and rice fields: from Migita's rocky slopes in the north to Ohira's ropeway in the east and on the southern seaside an island mountain. The cemented Saba River cuts through the city from further inland toward Tokuji town and flows to the cemented Seto Sea. East of Hofu Station is a bustling "entertainment district" where the naughty and drunk feed their sinful habits. It can be hard to meet people your own age in Hofu--better than more rural locales of course, but everyone seems to be in high school or over forty or just dresses funny. The most famous sight is Hofu Tenmangu Shrine, the goal for hoards of half-naked men in the Half-Naked Man Festival in November--but much better and far more peaceful than this is the lonely and beautiful Amida Temple, halfway up Ohira Mountain. For locations ask at the Info desk in Hofu Station.

Here are some more gritty details:

S H O P P I N G
Three words: go to Fukuoka.
No time? Like I said, there is SATY right behind the station. You'll see lots and lots of students there (and they'll see you too, I bet!). On the 1st floor is a big grocery store, food court, camera shops, liquor store, etc. On the second floor are MYCAL cinema, a great place to see overpriced movies; and lots of various clothing outlets. On the third floor is a bookstore, CD shop, appliance area, and an video arcade as well as a 100 yen store for those of you who like cheap crap. The fourth floor hides our evil enemies from NOVA. Further north is YOUME TOWN, the same kind of thing as SATY minus the theatre. NAFCO is a good place to buy anything from bleach to toothpaste (don't mix those up!) to curtains to chairs. Also has cheap photo developing. It has two locations, but is the more easily reached one is west of the station near the train line. The Ginza arcade--yawn!--toward Tenmangu has almost nothing in it of interest except an newly renovated INTERNET CAFƒ. And last, the SOUVENIR SHOP across the street from Tenmangu is a good place to find sweets and nicknacks to send home to family. The people there are friendly. Once a year there is a big flea market "downtown".

G R O C E R Y S T O R E S
Your best bet for variety is SATY, although it is expensive. Cheaper is the new MAXVALUE in southern Hofu by the sports centre, or Y-VALUE with locations by NAFCO and in the Migita area.

R E S T A U R A N T S Hofu has all the regular fast food outlets: HOKKAHOKKATEI (3 or 4 locations), NAGASAKI Champon (3), YOSHINOYA beef bowls, MOS BURGER, MACDONALDS (2), KINRYU Ramen, KOKO ICHIBAN Curry Rice and other cheap places.
The best ramen place is called RAMEN SHOP, and is in southern Hofu. On Thursday evenings a bowl is only 200 yen, or 300 yen for two bowls. The owner is friendly to foreigners and may give you free things like gyoza or share a beer with you. He's an arm wrestling champ! HAKATA RAMEN is only open at night but is fairly good, if you don't mind eating with drunks and perverts.

Hungry for dead cow? By the station with the flaming torches is KARUBI, a good yakiniku restaurant featuring a salad bar. But the star feature in Hofu's yakiniku repetoire is surely SHORAKU, a small Korean place. I was here once and a cockroach crawled into the fire and died! That said, the meat and bibimbap here is delicious, and the kimchi is homemade and very spicy. Follow the train line east until you see a red canopy over a door and smell smoke. The mama-san and her daughter there are very friendly and speak some English, especially the daughter. There is also GYUMARU north-west of the station.

A good smokey, rowdy izakaya is MURASAKI, west of the station past the police box and a shoe store. The menu is good and prices reasonable. It can accommodate a fair-sized crowd of drunken foreigners.

Do you like CHINESE? Make a reservation at the restaurant by Tenmangu. Some Chinese people work there and the atmosphere is cool. A cheaper, more Japanese alternative is in southern Hofu.

Got a date? TOMATO is a small place near the RAMEN SHOP, quaint and with a variety of dishes, Italian and Japanese all mixed together. Free ice cream/dessert for the ladies, I think. As well, there is an expensive Italian joint called ROMA near the entertainment district and an Italian man works there.

Those hungry for some okonomiyaki can hop behind SATY to TAMPOPO. It's cheap and the woman there is nice.

And lastly, don't forget the food court in SATY.

B A R S
Yes, if it isn't enough that you can shop, eat, and be stared at in Hofu, well, you can drink too! Basically just head east to the entertainment district and follow the funny-walking people. Check out ORPLID in the 808 Building. It is good for a drink and snacks with lots of friends (or with only one) and has modern music (sometimes live). From time to time there are hoppin' events here. Same with AVALON. There is a small jazz bar named BIRDLAND to the east. Near the station and Nagasaki Champon is INDIAN OCEAN BAR. Like a cramped nuclear bunker in the basement, the owner speaks some English and is very toastily laid back. Usually it is just you, the bartender and some smoke, but sometimes there are loud live rock concerts here. Many people come. It is hot. The bathroom is really clean! Back in the entertainment area BAGUS is a genuinely cool place. It's small, but the dreadlock-haired owner cooks up Indonesia/Bali/Thai/Vietnam/Jamaica-style food in the cool reggae background. And last, if you are looking for something a little more Phillipean-style, try the bar ANGELIQUE for the company of some friendly but not too attractive Phillipeno girls. Yeah. The (ex-?) owner speaks english. You may meet some mofia.

K A R A O K E Can you sing? Does it matter? Near TenTenMaru Sushi shop look for a big KING KONG face coming out of the building's wall. Not bad prices, if there are lots of people. But perhaps the best place to display your drunken vocal talents is KIRARA, located in the darkness along the Saba River. The microphones and music selection is good.

S P O R T S There are a few fitness centres around. The big green-roof SPORTS CENTER in southern Hofu is a massive complex. Here you can do Karate, Judo, Aikido, Kendo, Archery and other martial arts. There are baseball fields, running tracks, swimming pools, and basketball arena.

H E Y, I T I S J A P A N, A F T E R A L L! For you tourists out there, your first stop (and last?) will be to Hofu's acclaimed TENMANGU SHRINE, one of the three top Tenmangu shrines in Japan. The big veranda will give you a nice view of the city. The shrine maidens ("miko-san") are really nice. If Hofu has an event, it is held at Tenmangu. The biggest two of these are the Half-Naked Man Festival (HADAKABO) and New Year's. On Saturday in November thousands of men dressed in diapers and bandaids (okay, that's what it looks like!) brave the autumn chill and thunder around the city, heaving portable shrines and stopping to slam back cups of sake. They converge on Tenmangu to throw their portables into the main shrine. If you are lucky you may see someone get hurt in the rush, but in recent years things have been more tame. It all depends on liquor intake and the presense of mofia members. As for New Year's, you better get there at 11 pm to line up or you may not get to pray until 1 am! Thousands of young punks and freaks and normal folk crowd up the cold stone steps. Watch out for flying coins! Also recommended is SETSUBUN Festival in February and the DANCE FESTIVAL in early August. Out with the devil, in with good luck! If you are wondering what happened to the top of Tenmangu Mountain, if was burnt by a misplaced firework in 2001. Now that was exciting.

There are a few other minor temples and shrines around Tenmangu, including one west with an eerie green statue of Kanmon. Next head east to MORI GARDEN for a quick look (not free, of course) at a Japanese garden with a pleasant pond and stone bridge. It is expensive to get into MORI MANSION so it is probably not worth it.

Much further east, but do-able on a bicycle with gears--as you will be going uphill--is AMIDA TEMPLE. This quiet complex is built on the side of Ohira Mountain. It is very quiet and peaceful, and boasts some nice scenery amongst the bamboo trees. You can walk around in the main building and look at the interesting picture stories on the ceiling and walls. As well, there are some Buddha statues and a big bell to gong. Come in autumn to see tree colours or in June to see the blooming hydraenia flowers during the AJISAI festival. As well, if you prefer a more peaceful New Year's Amida Temple is a nice alternative to Tenmangu. A bus runs from Hofu station to Amida Temple. Don't miss the last one back.

There is a ROPEWAY to the top of Ohira Mountain. It is very popular on New Year's Eve. Show up at about 5 am and walk up the mountain with hoards of people to see--if you are lucky--the first sunrise of the new year, rising over the Seto Sea. Or the first clouds of the new year, lounging like lazy fat people over the Seto Sea. It is very cold waiting at the top, but fun.

Any mountain climbers out there? Tackle the rocks of Migita-dake for a good workout. There are numerous trails, some rock carvings and a spooky temple. Migita is great, as it the small mountain on the otherside of the road.

If you don't like the disgusting pollution of Tonomi's beaches, try the disgusting pollution of the beach on Mukou Island. At least there is some sand to run on and the pleasant sound of surf. The small beach is isolated on the far side of the jungle-like fishing island. Come at night for a good view of the stars.

There is other stuff in Hofu like a rock garden with a HARAKIRI room (samurai suicide room) and some old salt factory, but really that's about it. You can discover the rest for yourself. So why not visit Hofu? If you come from a small village in Japan, you'll love it! If you don't, well, er, um, aw hell--you'll love it too! Maybe.

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Tokuyama
by Leon Bell

Tokuyama is a small city (about 110,000 people) with a lot to offer for those willing to ãgive it a go.ä One of the best things about Tokuyama is it has a Shinkansen station - much to the envy of Yamaguchi city (the prefectural capital, in fact the only prefectural capital NOT to have a Shinkansen station). Travel around the city is very easy, there is a bus station right across the road from the train station, and a taxi rank that always has a number of enthusiastic drivers ready to take you for a relaxing drive around Tokuyama - important tip for any wishing to use taxis in Japan in general - GET IN THE CAB FIRST AND THEN TELL THEM YOUR DESTINATION.

To the right of the train station is the Ginza shopping area. Topos department store is the best place in the Ginza to buy cheap goods ranging from electrical to groceries (basement floor). There is also Kintetsu department store. Kintetsu can be very expensive, but at the same time it is a good place to buy those unique ãJapaneseä gifts to send home. The Ginza is also host to a number of Japanese restaurants, and for those wishing to commit gastronomical suicide there is also a McDonalds. However, it you just HAVE to have fast food give the Lotteria in the Ginza a try. Lotteria is a Korean chain and for my money, the BBQ light burger is about the best burger in Japan. The Ginza also has many specialty shops, that while not always cheap are well worth a look for the occasional bargain.

Away from the Ginza, Tokuyama boasts a zoo (although rumor has it as being very so-so), an art museum and a cultural center. A few years ago the cultural center put Tokuyama on the map when it played host to Japanese pop sensations Morning Musume (check out their CDs when you come to Japan).

The bar and club scene in Tokuyama is wide and varied. The unofficial foreigner bar is called La Biere. The dŽcor is not that great, but the bartender speaks English, and is always ready to have a chat - the story of his first sexual experience is always good for a laugh - but I didnât tell you that. La Biere also has great chips (fries) - which alone warrants my mentioning it. Also check out the Merino Bar - a good cafŽ style establishment that, yes you guessed it - has good chips.

There are a number of nightclubs around Tokuyama and perhaps the best is Garage Paradise. Every few weeks GP has a guest DJ and it usually turns into a good night. There is also a new club called Para Para in the Ginza. Para Para is kind of like Japanese line dancing. Iâve never been to this club so I can only assume that it is full of brightly dressed Japanese people standing in line, facing the mirrored wall and ãdancingä in time together - so if this sounds like your thing give it a try!

Sometimes the nightclubs charge an admission fee. Usually the price is posted on the wall near the entrance but occasionally Iâve had to ask. Sometimes the fee is obscenely high. If you feel the entrance fee is a bit too expensive - DONâT GO IN. Foreigners are sometimes targeted for high prices. The good news is that most places in Tokuyama donât do this, but it can happen.

Something not usually mentioned in any report on Tokuyama is a small island, 40 minutes by ferry, called Otsushima. This island was a base for the ãKaitenä (suicide submarines) in WWII. There is a Kaiten museum with a full sized replica that is well worth a look. But perhaps the biggest appeal of Otsushima is its feeling of peace and quiet. There are a few fishing villages dotted around the island where the most activity youâll see is one of the island cats trying to escape from an unused crab pot that is has managed to get caught in. Otsushima is a great place for hiking, cycling, camping, and of course fishing - check it out when you need to take a break from the fast pace of Japan.

Although Tokuyama doesnât rate as one of the greatest tourist destinations in Japan, it still has a lot to offer. Those new JETs who will live here shall soon discover this and I hope those new to Yamaguchi ken will eventually make their way here and discover this too. By the way, my friends address my letter ãPokuyama-shi.ä If you have any small family members Iâm sure they would get a kick out of sending letters to you in Pokuyama (trans. Pokemon Mountain).

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Iwakuni
	This is the gateway into (or out of) Yamaguchi Ken to the east. The Kintaikyo, or arched bridge, is the major tourist draw. This is completely understandable as there isn't nail one in this massive structure of timber and stone. Speaking of massive structures, there is a U.S. Marine base smack dab in the middle of town as well. So, if anyone wants to actually tell them how stupid you think they are, here is the place to do it. They are all a bunch of wussies anyway, you could probably take at least three out without breaking a sweat. As for other forms of entertainment, Iwakuni has its fair share. Also, this is the closest city to Hiroshima in the Ken if you need an urban fix. Unofficially, Iwakuni information can be accessed through this link. Take a walk on the wild side of that "tres-hip" Iwakuni scene with former JET, Dee Murphy.

IWAKUNI
by: Dee Murphy

Never a dull moment in this entertainment packed mini-city of approx. 117,000 Japanese and 3,000 US Marines!

Sights
Kintai: a beautiful area to the south of the city. The impressive Kintaikyo Bridge spans the Nishiki River. Made of wood and without a single nail, the basis of its five arches are said to house the bodies of five virgins. The young maidens were apparently buried alive as sacrifices for the good fortune and prosperity of the townspeople. The bridge is best viewed during April, Hanami (flower viewing) season. In summer it is possible to swim in the river near the bridge, although it is dangerous when the water level is high! Cormorant Fishing (birds tied to a wooden boat with a wire loop around their necks, catch fish by lantern light!) can also be viewed from the bridge during the summer months.
To cross the bridge costs a couple hundred yen (free after 5 p.m.). Alternatively you can walk 200 m to the nearest road bridge and walk across for free.
Iwakuni Koen: Across the river is the pretty, peaceful Iwakuni Park. In amongst the shrines and Japanese gardens is a tranquil, little, traditional tea house and several excellent ice cream parlors.
Iwakuni Jo:
Picturesquely situated at the top of Shiroyama, Iwakuni Castle commands a great view over Iwakuni city. The castle can be reached by ropeway from Iwakuni koen or on foot. The hike through the woods takes about 25 minutes from the park to the castle. The view is well worth the effort, but you might want to save your pennies by skipping a visit inside the castle. It houses only a pretty uninspiring collection of samurai armor and weaponry.
* Getting there: Buses, including the occasionally beautifully furnished old-fashioned style tourist bus, leave Iwakuni station every half and hour for Kintaikyo. It takes approx. 20 minutes and it costs 240 yen.

Nearby Sights
Miyajima Island: One of the three most highly rated tourist attractions in Japan. A must see and one of my favorite places in Japan. This tiny island is home to the famous floating tori and has numerous hiking trails, parks, and temples. There is a ropeway at the top of the mountain in the center of the island. Here monkeys run free and there is a fantastic view over Hiroshima Bay and the surrounding islands. Miyajima is only a 20 minute train ride and then 15 minutes on a ferry from Iwakuni Station (around 500 yen - includes ferry ticket).
Hiroshima: the city of the A-Bomb. The Peace Museum (a memorial ceremony is held there every year on August 6th to remember the 230,000 victims of the bomb), spectacular gardens and great shops and nightlife. Hiroshima also has a castle, but itâs fairly mediocre. Kembyâs is the best bar in town. It is spacious with two floors, pool tables, a relaxed atmosphere and it often has live bands on Friday and Saturday nights. Best of all, it has no cover charge. Hiroshima is about 45 minutes by train from Iwakuni Station (around 700 yen).

Eating in Iwakuni
Japanese: Okonomiyaki (Japanese style omelette pancake), ramen, udon, and soba stalls and Izakayaâs (Japanese style food pubs) abound in and around the station. For the best choice, cross the road from the station and head into the areas behind Mos Burger. There are several good revolving sushi bars in Central Iwakuni: one in the area behind Mos Burger, also try Kiri Kiti Sushi on Route 188, just past Four Corners and The Sushi Bar, near Minami Iwakuni Station. The excellent and cheap Gyoza House is also located nearby - great sets. For a range of great Japanese food (again, the sets are especially good value). Try Sanzantei on Route 2.
Fast Food: Mos Burger is opposite the station and McDonalds and KFC are along Route 2. California Chicken in Four Corners also does great chicken pieces and a pretty top BLT. The owner is a cool guy too - an ex-marine and general philosopher on life. Stop bye, have a chat with Ray and send him my love! There is also a Burger King on base, so if you crave a char-grilled burger, make friends with a marine or two and get them to take you there!
Italian: Poesia in the Nakadori (the covered arcade in town) is pretty good, but my all time favorite restaurant in Iwakuni is the amusingly named, Vamos Centre. Housed in a blue building just off Route 2, it does great food at affordable prices. Try the Garlic Sauteed Chicken. It's excellent!
Family Style Restaurants: Jolly Pasta and Sunday Sun on Route 2.
International: For a choice of a variety of foods from around the globe and a relaxing, culturally diverse atmosphere, try The Spice Market on the street behind AEON.

Entertainment
Central Iwakuni
- Rock 666: beer and cocktails every night of the week. The food's not bad either. It's small, but the barmen are wicked and there is usually no cover. Occasionally 50s swing dancing breaks out on the dance floor. There are also often live bands on weekends, but this means a cover of 1500 yen.
- K-House: near the station, itâs a good place for a quiet beer and some excellent bar food.
- The Gold Tooth: small reggae and R&B bar with cheap cocktails. Near Deo Deo.
- Shake and Shake: The biggest club in town with the highest cover 2000-3000 yen. Live bands on the weekends.
- Dina Live House: Located on the 3rd floor of a building in the main bar district. Here, Elvis lives on a Saturday night! A nice bar, room to dance and a good atmosphere. Often a small cover.
- The Beer Gardens: Eat all you can and drink all you can for 3000 yen. There's one on the 9th floor of the brand new Iwakuni Business Hotel, and the another one on the rooftop of the Iwakuni Kinsui Hotel. Great in the summer for a party.
FOUR CORNERS -Four corners is the name of the bar and club district near base. Basically, if you do not like marines, don't go. However, if you take your sense of humor and your chastity belt with you, and down several large cans of Chu-Hi (Japanese vodka) beforehand, it can prove to be great fun! (Maybe not a fun place for the boys though.)
WARNING: It is especially dangerous for male AETs to wear leather trousers and dance on stage in the Four Corners area.
- Terryâs: I canât really remember what itâs like as I got arrested and barred in my first week for breaking the toilet! Its big, not very beautiful, and the nearest Iâve felt to being in a Vietnam war movie. Very 50s, there are dollar bills everywhere on the walls and they play Jimmy Buffet too often, but itâs got a great selection of interesting shots and the tables also double as rather pornographic video games. What can I say?! Check it out for yourself.
- Lee's: Where the officers hang out. A small 2nd floor bar. Karaoke available.
- New Manhattan's: Challenge Jimmy the barman to make any cocktail in the world! He swears he knows them all!! A quieter bar off the main drag on 188.
- The Underground: Despite its name, this cheesy club is situated on the 2nd floor and plays the latest tunes from the States. All night dancing and free entry. They even give out free glow in the dark bracelets here! Yeah, baby, yeah!
- CRC (Club Rhythm Company): A new club, cover varies between 500 and 1500 yen. It is conveniently located next to, The Iwakuni Assembly of God, should you feel the need to confess any outrageous sins in the morning!
- New Sorrento's: Tres tacky, it's mirror ball city. Cover is 1500 yen with 2 drinks. Even has Mama-sans to fill up your drinks. Decent size dance floor though.

I have only been in Iwakuni for one year, and for a lot of that time I was jetting off discovering other areas of Japan. Therefore, this guide is by no means extensive, nor is it complete. Most of it is written from a completely biased point of view, and, as I was usually pissed, the information it contains is also virtually guaranteed to be unreliable. My advice, therefore whether living in, or just visiting "Planet Iwakuni," is to keep an open mind and to go and explore this fascinating and often bizarrely unique city for yourself. (Just don't shag any marines or break any toilets!)

Enjoy yourselves and take care!! Dee xxx

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